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Published on 03 November 2026, updated on 03 November 2026, by Mathilde Puh
A jeans hem takes an hour with a sewing machine, two by hand and ten minutes with iron-on hemming tape. The real difficulty is not sewing: it is choosing the right length before cutting. At Freeman T. Porter, lengths vary widely (65 cm inside leg on our boyfriend Maeva, 82 cm on our flare Jessy), so start there. Here is the full method, followed by solutions without a machine or cutting.
Put on the jeans with your shoes and mark the length with chalk on the outside of the leg. The right length depends on the cut:
Always measure both legs: they do not always fall at exactly the same point. To avoid hemming, first check the inside leg under βView dimensionsβ on our product pages and compare with jeans that fit. Our jeans sizing guide explains measuring, and Denim Team Petite and Denim Team Grande group our shorter and longer styles.
The result resembles a factory hem, especially with the right thread. Allow an hour the first time to adjust the fold carefully. This tutorial also works for woven-fabric trousers: the only difference is fabric thickness.
This is the most discreet method: the original hem, with its fading and topstitching, stays visible.
Prepare the double fold as for machine sewing, then backstitch with strong thread. Backstitch holds better than slip stitch on thick denim. It takes around two hours, but the hem withstands washing.
Fold the hem, slip the tape between the layers and press with a steam iron for a few seconds. It is quick and easy. On thick or rigid denim, though, the glue adheres less well and the tape often comes loose after a few washes, especially hot machine washes. Reserve it for lightweight denim or a temporary solution.
The turn-up (or cuff) is the simplest alteration: roll the trouser hem outwards to reveal the inside of the denim. It also keeps your favourite jeans intact.
Several of our styles are designed with turn-ups: Pippa has wide cuffs, Maeva a pronounced turn-up, and Timea is worn with rolled hems. For men, Victor's turn-up reveals the selvedge finish of its raw denim. For which cuff suits each cut, see our jeans cut guide.
A raw hem means cutting jeans to the desired length and letting the edge fray in the wash. Cut straight, 1 cm longer than the finished length, then wash: the edge frays slightly. Jessy is sold with these raw-edge finishes. Beware: on stretch jeans, elastane may appear as small white threads.
The method is identical, but the fabric is thinner: a universal needle and ordinary thread are enough, and the allowance can be reduced to 2 cm. Suit or creased trousers are usually given an invisible hand-sewn hem using slip stitch on the inside.
Allow 2.5 to 3 cm below the finished length for a classic double fold. For the original-hem method, the allowance is half the length to remove.
For pure cotton, yes, to be safe: cotton may shrink slightly, especially in a tumble dryer, which our care guide advises against. Wash once, then measure. Details are in our article on washing jeans.
Yes, with a denim needle and a slightly longer straight stitch. Do not stretch the fabric as you sew, or the hem will ripple.
Three options: hand-sewn backstitch, iron-on tape for lightweight denim, or a turn-up if you do not want to cut anything.
That is a different alteration. Our article on loosening tight jeans explains the solutions.
Measure twice, cut once: that is the rule that really matters. If you are not comfortable with the machine, start with a turn-up to test the length for a few days before making the permanent hem. Next time you buy, check the inside leg on the product page: you might avoid alterations altogether.
